Resins provide excellent floor protection against mechanical and chemical loads, creating easily cleanable and aesthetically pleasing coatings. They are resistant to a range of substances, including fresh water, seawater, alkalis, petroleum derivatives, industrial atmospheres, as well as solvents and diluted acids. They are resistant to a wide range of temperatures, including hot tires. With the appropriate primer, they can be applied to concrete (porous and smooth), tiles, and metal. Due to their properties, they are suitable for use in warehouses, production halls (including the food industry), laboratories, garages, and even at home.

The following article aims to present the basic differences between floor protection systems and to help you choose the best one for you.

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Available systems

Depending on the application method, we distinguish between paint (painted coating) and self-leveling (self-flowing) epoxy resin.

Paint, or the painted coating, is applied using a roller. This coating is approximately 120µm thick, so if there are any irregularities in the substrate, the paint will adapt to the substrate and not mask them. Due to their high mechanical and chemical properties, epoxy paints, such as Neopox Special , and polyurethane paints, such as Neodur Special , These are two-component products – base and hardener – which should be mixed together in proportion before application and used within the "pot life" of the mixture. If the components are mixed and this time is exceeded, the mixture will harden and become unusable. Epoxy paints are not UV-resistant (they chalk over time), so if you want to protect your floor outdoors, you should use a polyurethane paint, which is characterized by this resistance. Also available is the quick-drying Neodur Fast Track for roller application, which can be applied indoors and outdoors.

Neopox Special epoxy floor paintNeopox Special
Neodur Special polyurethane flooring resinNeodur Special

Neodur Fast Track PR quick-drying primerNeodur Fast Track

Self-leveling epoxy resin, on the other hand, is a 1-3mm thick coating. Two-component epoxy resins, such as Epoxol Floor,  are additionally mixed with 0.1-0.5mm quartz sand , which acts as a filler. The resulting mixture is spread with a trowel and then deaerated with a spiked roller . Due to the relatively thick layer applied, air bubbles may get under the coating, and the spiked roller is designed to remove them.

Epoxol Floor S Epoxy Screed ApplicationVenting the spout

Epoxol Floor S Epoxy Screed ApplicationReady screed

Epoxol Floor S Epoxy Screed ApplicationReady screed

Each of the above proposed solutions is a strong solution with high mechanical and chemical resistance, but it should be remembered that due to the greater thickness of the coating with self-leveling epoxy resin, it is a more durable solution and also characterized by higher abrasion resistance.

When selecting a system, it's also important to consider the time required for full mechanical and chemical curing. Epoxy and polyurethane systems require 7 days before use, while the Neodur Fast Track allows for light foot traffic 3 hours after the final coat is applied, and heavy traffic the following day. This is a significant consideration when painting a floor, for example, in a production hall, and it's impossible to shut it down for an extended period.

It's also important to note that the above systems are primarily industrial and unfortunately, they tend to scratch (epoxies and polyurethanes are more susceptible to scratches, polyureas are less so), although this isn't a significant issue in production halls, for example. When using an epoxy system at home, it's worth additionally protecting the coating with a topcoat, such as Neodur Varnish . The varnish will strengthen the coating and, most importantly, it will mask scratches, as they will appear on the clear coat (they won't be visible), not directly on the epoxy coating.

Neodur Varnish polyurethane floor varnish
Neodur Varnish coating
Neodur Varnish Application
Neodur Varnish coating

Neopox Special epoxy paint and the Neodur Fast Track are also available in other colors (e.g. white and yellow), so they can be used for painting lines in production halls or parking lots.

Epoxy for painting the Neopox Special line
Lines painted with Neopox Special epoxy paint

Filling gaps and irregularities

Sometimes, our flooring isn't in perfect condition (has cracks, imperfections, or imperfections) and requires repair before final painting. Depending on the frequency and depth of the damage, there are several ways to do this.

If the damage is local and does not exceed 0.5 cm in depth, it can be filled with Epoxol Putty, . When applying this putty, you need three spatulas: the first for applying component A, the second for component B, and the third for mixing component A with component B. The components should not be allowed to become contaminated beforehand, as a reaction will occur.

Epoxol Putty
Epoxol Putty – mixing component A with component B

If the cracks are larger and don't exceed 3mm in depth, it's best to prepare the filler yourself, as it's both cheaper and more effective. To do this, mix Epoxol Primer SF  with 0.1-0.5mm quartz sand . For cracks of 1mm depth, add 1kg of sand to 1kg of primer; for 2mm, add 2kg of primer + 2kg of sand; for 3mm, add 3kg of primer + 3kg of sand. Spread the resulting filler with a trowel and allow to dry. Keep in mind that the thicker the layer, the longer the drying time, so wait long enough to ensure the applied layer has had time to dry completely, not just from the top.

Epoxol Primer SF Epoxy Floor Primer
Epoxol Primer SF
Quartz sand
Quartz sand

Floor cavities should not be filled with ordinary acrylic masses, such as those used to fill cavities in walls, for example, because this is a weaker solution with significantly lower hardness.

You can fill the gaps using the above systems yourself. However, if the gaps are deeper or cover a larger area, it would be best to pour a concrete screed, and in this situation, it's best to rely on professionals.

System application

Painting with the above systems can be done independently, provided you have basic manual skills. If you're not confident, you can outsource the painting to a contractor, but only one that knows what they're doing. The most important thing is to properly prepare the surface for painting (cleaning it of dust and dirt, especially grease/oil, etc., and removing loose coatings – all of which impair the adhesion of the coating to the substrate), and then apply the system according to the information in the technical data sheet.

The most important information to pay attention to before applying is:

  • Mixing ratio of component A (base) with component B (hardener),
  • Minimum required temperature of the substrate and the surroundings,
  • The shelf life of the mixture,
  • Time to apply the next layer (according to the prevailing temperature),
  • The above systems should be applied to dry, cured concrete (at least 28 days after pouring). Neopox Primer WS, (e.g., if only 14 days have passed since pouring the concrete or if the substrate was cleaned with water and has not had time to dry properly). In cases of capillary action (e.g., poorly installed insulation), Neopox Primer AY, (made to order). Applying an epoxy system to damp concrete without a suitable primer, there is a high probability that the applied coating will not cure, or if it does, the trapped moisture will begin to escape and the coating will crack after some time. If you are unsure whether your substrate is dry, you can test it on a smaller area. To do this, tape the foil tightly to the substrate in a 1m x 1m square and observe whether moisture escapes (the foil evaporates). If it does, wait for the substrate to dry or use one of the above primers.
  • The choice of accessories is also important. When applying a solvent-based system, all tools used must be solvent-resistant, as the solvent can dissolve the bristles in a roller or brush. Before painting, it's also a good idea to wash all tools with water (this will remove any loose bristles) and then allow them to dry.
  • For the paint to adhere to the substrate, the surface must be absorbent. If you're unsure, you can pour a little water on a smaller area and observe how it reacts for a few minutes. If the water absorbs within 1-2 minutes, the surface is highly absorbent; 2-5 minutes means it's moderately absorbent; however, if water remains on the surface after more than 5 minutes, the surface is not absorbent. In such a case, you should use Super Spoiwo 3333 , which will ensure the paint adheres to the substrate.
  • Please note that the theoretical product consumption stated in the technical data sheet is tested under laboratory conditions, i.e., ideal conditions, and does not take into account material losses or highly absorbent substrates. In reality, it may turn out that more material will be required than originally calculated. It is impossible for the theoretical consumption to be higher than the practical consumption, therefore, if any material is left unused, it indicates that the product layer was applied too thinly. In such a situation, another layer should be applied to achieve the coating thickness required in the technical data sheet. If the final coating thickness is lower than the one required in the technical data sheet, the cured coating will not have adequate chemical and mechanical resistance.
  • Full chemical and mechanical curing – the floor cannot be used until the minimum full curing time has passed, as this may result in damage to the coating.
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Priming the floor
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Priming the floor
Epoxol Floor S Epoxy Screed Application
Spreading the screed with a trowel

We always include technical data sheets with your order. You can also find them on our website, under each product description. Please review them before starting your painting project. If you have any questions, please contact us. We provide technical advice and prepare price quotes.